Episode

How to Build a Cummins Engine the Right Way (Part 1)

Podcast
Power Driven Podcast
Published
Apr 28, 2026
Duration seconds
3258
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not_requested
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https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/power-driven/episodes/How-to-Build-a-Cummins-Engine-the-Right-Way-Part-1-e3ijrjs
Audio
https://traffic.megaphone.fm/APO2016746384.mp3
JSON
/v1/public/podcasts/power-driven-podcast-7135337/episodes/how-to-build-a-cummins-engine-the-right-way-part-1
Markdown
/podcast/power-driven-podcast-7135337/how-to-build-a-cummins-engine-the-right-way-part-1.md

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Summary

If you have ever cracked open an engine block and wondered whether you are missing something the shop guys never talk about, this episode is for you. Todd, Will, and Myer break down the real hands-on engine building process, step by step, using their Myers UCC build as the backdrop for a conversation that covers everything from the stuff you check before you turn a wrench to the stuff that will bite you if you skip it. The episode kicks off with oil galley plug inspection, what the guys call the oil rail, oil rifle, or oil passage depending on who is talking, and why making sure every one of those plugs is seated before assembly is a non-negotiable. They get into cleaning procedures using an engine bore brush kit to pull out machining particles and metal flakes from the cylinder bores and oil passages before anything goes back together. Bearing clearances get a solid breakdown here. The guys walk through main bearings and rod bearings on a Cummins engine, explain why the oil holes in the bearings do not line up the way you might expect, and talk through what proper clearance looks like for street builds versus high RPM race applications. They also hit a detail that trips up a lot of first-time builders: rod caps are matched to their specific rod during the machining process, and swapping caps between rods will cost you roundness and likely an engine. Cylinder wall prep takes up a good chunk of the conversation too. The guys reference using the Total Seal ring break-in compound to verify cleanliness, where green means the wall is ready and brown means you are not done yet. From there the discussion moves into piston ring gap, how they set the second ring at or slightly larger than the top ring, ring orientation during installation, and their experience running Total Sea…