{"podcast":{"title":"After Hours Skin Clinic","slug":"after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250","podcast_index_feed_id":7149250,"rss_url":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/afterhoursskinclinic","website_url":null,"image_url":"https://megaphone.imgix.net/podcasts/79350d8c-b8ae-11ef-9522-c3d2e7a7346f/image/ae24d7c7b5cd4e3cd4cc60083df9569a.jpg?ixlib=rails-4.3.1&max-w=3000&max-h=3000&fit=crop&auto=format,compress","author":"Raconteur Studios","episode_count":102,"summary":"After Hours Skin Clinic is the expert-led skincare podcast hosted by consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid. It’s laid-back and information-packed, covering everything you’ve ever wanted to know about your skin and how to look after it. Whether you're struggling with acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, pigmentation, hair loss, sensitive skin or signs of ageing, or simply want to build a skincare routine that actually works, Emma and Ellie separate skincare facts from fiction with honest, practical advice you can trust. Along the way, they share their favourite products and unpick the evidence behind viral beauty trends all whilst answering your biggest skincare questions (send them in to ahsc@raconteur.tv or DM us on Instagram @afterhoursskinclinic). Each episode explores the science behind healthy skin, covering - in detail - everything from SPF, retinoids, cleansers and moisturisers to cosmetic treatments, scalp health, skin cancer prevention and the latest dermatology research. You'll also hear conversations with leading experts from across dermatology and the wider beauty industry, helping you better understand your skin, make informed decisions and spe…","last_synced_at":"2026-07-23T12:17:14.396520+00:00","page_url":"https://stenobird.com/podcast/after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250"},"episode":{"title":"Retinoids Explained: Myths, Purging, Irritation & How to Use Them Properly","slug":"retinoids-explained-myths-purging-irritation-how-to-use-them-properly","published_at":"2026-05-07T02:00:00+00:00","page_url":"https://stenobird.com/podcast/after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250/retinoids-explained-myths-purging-irritation-how-to-use-them-properly","show_page_url":"https://stenobird.com/podcast/after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250","url":"https://traffic.megaphone.fm/NSR3055119715.mp3","audio_url":"https://traffic.megaphone.fm/NSR3055119715.mp3","summary":"Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it? From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths, like whether they thin your skin or cause inflammation. Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid give you a step-by-step guide to using prescription retinoids safely and effectively. What You’ll Learn in This Episode: Do retinoids thin the skin? (Spoiler: no. This episode covers what they actually do) The difference between retinol vs prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene Why retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing and acne What “retinization” and retinoid dermatitis really looks like How to manage: What purging is (and how long it lasts) Why your skin might react differently in cold UK weather The biggest skincare mistake: combining retinoids with exfoliating acids Why SPF is essential when using retinoids How to Use Retinoids (Dermatologist-Approved Routine) A step-by-step approach to minimise irritation: Apply to dry skin (wait 20–30 minutes after washing) Avoid sensitive areas (corners of nose, mouth, eyes) Start slowly and build consistency Use the “moisturiser sandwich” technique if needed Try short-contact therapy for sensitive skin Keep your routine simple—avoid over-exfoliating Retinoid Side Effects Explained Retinoid dermatitis: dry, red, flaky patches (often around nose/mouth) Purging: temporary breakouts as skin turnover increases Sensitivity changes due to environment, illness, or product changes Products mentioned: La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Avène Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream Peptide-based moisturisers (barrier-supporting) Hydrocolloid spot patches (zit stickers) Niacinamide (around 4%) serums ⁠Klira⁠ - Foun…","meta_description":"Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it? From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths,…","key_points":[],"chapters":[],"topics":[],"duration_seconds":1896,"processing_state":"not_requested","actions":[{"name":"request_transcript","method":"POST","url":"https://stenobird.com/v1/public/podcasts/after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250/episodes/retinoids-explained-myths-purging-irritation-how-to-use-them-properly/transcription-requests","description":"Idempotently request low-priority transcript generation for this episode."},{"name":"read_markdown","method":"GET","url":"https://stenobird.com/podcast/after-hours-skin-clinic-7149250/retinoids-explained-myths-purging-irritation-how-to-use-them-properly.md","description":"Read the agent-friendly Markdown representation of this episode resource."}]}}